- Pedestrians are to be regarded as pigeons; thus, they are totally expendable.
- If cars are the kings of the road, vespas are the renegade princes with superiority complexes.
- While cars generally remain on their assigned side of a two-way road, it is not uncommon to see them parked facing one another on the side of a street.
- The word 'bus' is code for 'death trap.'
- Crosswalks exist only in the imaginations of Japanese and American tourists.
- Green means go; red means hesitate before going.
- If the bus driver realizes he missed a turn, while midway through an intersection, it is perfectly acceptible to reverse through the intersection and force cross-traffic to wait.
- The buses are never too full.
Friday, May 9, 2008
Rules of the [Italian] Road
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Confessions of a Gelatoholic
I have a love/hate relationship with Italia, meaning that it makes me seething just about every day and nearly every however; however, the same country also has the ability to make me blissfully happy in a matter of minutes. At least, it proves that I have seen the real Italia, not the glittering, prepackaged tourist version.
Italian buses may be the epitome of public transportation hell, but the trains, which can carry you to Pisa, Sienna, or a number of beaches in just over an hour make up for it. I haven't been to Pisa, yet, but Sienna was wonderful. The centre of the city is closed off to cars and the city offers a smaller, more peaceful, medieval version of Firenze. We spent the day checking out churches and walking around. (Because that is virtually all there is to do here). However, they have a fantastic piazza around which there is a biannual horse race.
Italian parks make up for the frustrating streets. There is a wonderful one, which is very close to our school that we have eaten lunch in.
My host mother Anna doesn't speak any English. I kept waiting for the English to come but, alas, no. It is frustrating but gives me motivation to pay attention in Italian class. When the language barrier is too much, though, Heidi and I just look at one another and laugh and sometimes Anna will dig out her weathered Italian/English dictionary. The hardest part, though, is eating breakfast when our host-mom is home. The kitchen will be obscenely bright, the Italian version of talk radio will be berating Berlusconi, and Anna will be blabbering on and on expecting us to understand, when it's impossible for me to comprehend Italian before lunch. Heidi and I rate the quality of dinner conversations by the number of times we use the past tense. (extra points if you conjugate it with essere)
It, in fact, takes two Italians to change a light bulb. We met Anna's ex-husband (who we thought lived in Padua) when he came over to change the light bulb in the kitchen. Plus, the event involved both people on chairs trying to figure out the inner workings of the lamp. Now the new bulb gives of an unfriendly florescent glow.
There are too many mysteries within my house for me to comprehend. Again, we just nod and smile. Anna makes up for the confusion by being ridiculously quirky. She will find the humor of certain commercials distasteful and then crack up at the Italian version of candid camera. Plus, she is an opinionated left-wing supporter who is one of the few Italians to realize Berlusconi’s incompetence. (He is their version of George Bush) Lastly, she teaches young children and has more books than I can count, one of which is a huge volume of Emily Dickinson. (English on one page, Italian on the opposite)
Gelato is a wonderful creation. I believe it is one of the only things that keeps me sane in this twilight zone. My favorite is fondente con fragola. (dark chocolate with strawberry) mmm.
Thursday, March 27, 2008
CaRRying the ToRCh
Once we had gotten over the restless night, though, we set out for a sight seeing adventure. Maggie loves the Olympics just as much as I do (We have plans for London in 2012) and so seeing the old stadium and park etc. were at the top of our list. However, we didn't realize how long it would take to walk there. On our way, we first went down the street called Las Ramblas. It was filled with a lot of tourist shops and numerous human statues. The best part was the market, though. I've heard that it is one of the largest open-air markets in Europe. The fruits and vegetables and especially the candy was so beautiful. Everything looked delicious and Emily and I split one kilo of the reddest strawberries I've ever seen. After we had gotten our fill of the market, we started following the map in search of Olympic-ness. Eventually this meant heading up a fairly steep hill -that never seemed to end. We saw dozens of tour buses and eventually followed signs but it was not an easy climb. The planning committee must have taken Mt. Olympus to heart. Eventually we reached the top and were able to look around. We walked into the stadium and saw the torch that held the flame after the archer shot the flaming arrow. We also collapsed in the park's grass and looked at the pool from above. Our adventure was not over, though. We attempted to take the easy way back down via an air tram car. However, it took us in the wrong direction and left us even higher up on the mountain. Luckily, Amanda was able to find a shortcut which meant our walk back was less than 2 hours. After finally making it home, we all took part in the siesta tradition and then headed off to dinner at 10. How quickly we have come accustomed to the Spanish lifestyle.
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
crazy weather and hectic flights
We were all very relieved to have the semester over on that Wednesday, and even more glad to have two free days in London. On Wednesday, we took our second trip to the Cheshire Cheese, which is one of the oldest pubs in London, I think. It was converted from an old monestary. I'm not really sure on the history. It has a Wickepedia page, though.
We spent the last two days relaxing and packing, for the most part. Friday, was the busiest though. We caught luch at the Borough Market and I bought what is probably my last bottle of delicious apple juice from fruit grown in Kent. Then, we did the tour of the Tower of London. Forgetting it was Easter weekend, though, we were confronted by an excessive amount of tourists. Terrible. Otherwise, the tour was interesting and our Beefeater tour guide was funny. The weather was a different story, though. Even though it had been nice for the entire day, it started sprinkling after we got our tickets and then rained off and on throughout our whole tour. Then, when we were waiting int the unbelievably long queue to see the crown jewels, it started to hail. It was so miserable. Finally, Maggie and I warmed up with a trip to Harrods with Heidi. It was more elaborate than I could have imagined and wished I wasn't so tired when I went. The last part of our evening was a trip to the Stockpot which is a nice, plain English restaurant with really delicious food.
Saturday meant leaving London behind, though. We were all sad but excited for Amsterdam. We toured the Ann Frank House, visited the Van Gough Museum, took a canal boat tour, stopped inside the church with the largest nave in The Netherlands (which is no Christopher Wren by the way) and got an eye-blistering veiw of the red light district. It was so nice to be in a country where I didn't have to feel guilty for speeking English. The people were very nice and the city was beautiful except for one thing. SNOW, oh yeah, and HAIL. I guess I have nothing to complain about to everyone in WI but it was pretty painful having left my winter coat in London. Luckily I brought my wool hat and scarf. Sadly, I didn't even see real tulips up close.
Today I arrived in Barcelona, though, where it is sunny and 60ish. Our hostel is right next to the beach, which is amazing. It really was a great day, except for dragging 75 pounds of luggage through two cities. First of all, I thought I left my A/C adapter for my computer in Amsterdam because we left our dark room at 6:30, but it was sitting on top of my clothes when I opened my suitcase. Secondly, I didn't get charged by the sketchy Clickair airline for having baggage that was 10 kilo over the limit. It was spectacular. Now I'm tired and ready for bed, but I have to read a little Harry Potter Book 6 because it is not coming to Florence.
Saturday, March 8, 2008
Wicked!
Wednesday, March 5, 2008
harmonicas and jazz hands
One of the running themes for this week is music. Even after a long, boring class with John in the morning, we wanted to find something fun to do at night. After some internet browsing, we came upon a small blues club. It turned out to be a tiny hole in the wall called, Aint Nothin' But... Even though it was only a short tube ride away from 270 ECR, we had to queue in line for about 20 minutes. It was definitely worth the wait, though. Time Out's website described it as a place where B.B. King would have found himself when he was just beginning his career, had it been built. We were able to listen to a number of different bands and it was nice to hear some fantastic live music. The impromptu performers on the tube just don't always cut it. Also, Lee and Ben just drooled over the guitars because they're both suffering from withdrawal. We've already decided to go back sometime soon; we'll just have to get there early because space is limited and seating is almost nonexistent.
Last night, we went to the musical Billy Elliot for class, which couldn't have been further from what we had heard the previous night. I, for the most part, enjoyed the show, but it's definitely not one of my favorite musicals and I was really surprised to hear that Elton John wrote all of the music. Clearly, dancing was the main focus of the production while music and singing took the back seat. However, the dancers, especially Billy were wonderful. His talent was definitely shown in the range of performances throughout the show. He had one large classical ballet number midway through the show but then also had another number at the end that was influenced by break dancing and, since the actor had been in gymnastics, had numerous tumbling elements. I don't know how he didn't pass out. However, there are five different boys that perform on alternating nights because the role is so demanding. Again, the dancing was impressive but the music just wasn't enough.
Tonight is pretty low-key. I do plan to start that paper eventually. Tomorrow we have class with Sarah, so there will be a lot of walking involved. Luckily, we have a three day weekend to recover. Amanda, Emily and I have plans to see Les Miserables on Friday. I could not be more excited. Another girl who is on the program went and she was able to buy a ticket less than an hour before showtime extremely close to the stage. We're also going to find a place to have dinner in Leister Square, which is known as Theatre Land in the West End. There will definitely be reviews later.
Saturday, March 1, 2008
Marketeering
Today we went to the Portobello Market, which is in the Notting Hill area, for the first time, though. The first thing I bought was a little, red telephone booth key chain for a pound. I've decided to start collecting a key chain from every new city or country I visit this semester. I already have a little black and silver Eiffel Tower key chain from Paris and miniature Shakespeare from Stratford. The Portobello market has a lot of antiques and cool artists. It's so nice just to look around in the afternoon; the crowds are a little much, though. Eventually, we got hungry and Lee and I split a crepe filled with Nutella and bananas. Probably one of the most delicious things ever. After we made it through most of the market, we picked up some peppers and tomatoes for dinner and I bought a really cute grey dress.
Now we're getting ready for a late dinner and a fun Saturday night.
Friday, February 29, 2008
Collegiate field trips
Tonight we were able to take a tour of the Houses of Parliament. Our tour guide told us about the rich history of the building and I think I am actually starting to understand the convoluted succession of monarchs - maybe. He even pointed out a dent in one of the tables that is rumored to have been made from Winston Churchill's ring during intense meetings.
Saturday, February 23, 2008
The Hour That...
Friday, February 22, 2008
Amsterdam, Barcelona and the City
Today began with a journey to the City. (City with a capitol 'C' refers to the one square mile of London that was once Londinium or the original London. - Now, very few people live there so it functions solely as the city's center for commerce. When you think London skyline, you are thinking of the City) Anyways. We arrived at the preset location to meet Sarah a little bit early so a soy vanilla latte was able to help me warm up to the idea of a three hour walk. I know I can't complain about the cold when my friends and family are trapped under many feet of snow, but the wind was pretty evil today. Everything was so noisy, too. Apparently, they call jack hammers pneumatic drills. We saw many churches that were constructed under the direction of Christopher Wren after the Great Fire and a building that was made by the same man who conceptualized the Centre Pompidou. The architect is Richard Rogers and the building is the Lloyd's of London building. It is the most obscenely modern piece of architecture in the city. There is no way I could work there. I would feel like a cog in a machine. There is such a variety of different types of architecture and new and old buildings are intermixed throughout the entire city. I really appreciate the different textures and rich history. -Tomorrow we're climbing to the top of St. Paul's, though. We'll see if I still appreciate it after all of those stairs.
Monday, February 18, 2008
My unromanticized view of Paris- and why I enjoyed the city anyways
Sacre Coeur: It was extremely beautiful. There was such a contrast between the green grass; clear, blue sky; and white basillica. In addition, it is set very high on a hill and even though there are many stairs involved, there is a great view of the city from the outside. However, there were multiple men outside (clearly not with the church) who tried to tie little pieces of string around our wrists. They were very forward and demanding. Compared to London, the people in Paris who are looking for money are abrasive and relentles. Even though I was a little upset after my walk up the stairs, the view made up for it and we were able to circle the basillica during the church service. It was the perfect time because we were able to experience the sounds and smells of the building as well as it's architecture.
Les croque monsieurs!: Since Lee and I were starving after climbing up to Sacre Coeur, we looked for a place to have lunch. Finally we found this cafe that was fairly crowded, a sure sign of a good pick. We decided on a table inside and I was excited to see that they had croque monsieurs on the menu, one of the first french food items I ever learned. It is essentially a grilled ham and cheese but it is quintessentially French. The sandwich plus a cafe creme was the perfect lunch.
Notre Dame: A quick ride on the metro brought us to the most famous cathedral in paris. The stained glass windows were spectacular.
Conciergerie: We were able to walk around a little bit after Notre dame and found the conciergerie, which is French for a waste of time. No, seriously, our guide book explained it as an exciting, mysterious former prison that had housed many prisoners during the French revolution, including Marie Antoinette. We thought it would be a smaller version of the tower of london. No. It was a waste of euros, especially because we didn't speak French. Oh well.
Luxembourg Gardens: The park was extremely lively, filled with dozens of kids climbing on the HUGE jungle gym, old men smoking cigarettes over games of petanque (French bocce ball), and students reading books in chairs set along the walkways. I couldn't have asked for a better way to spend some downtime.
Crepes avec Nutella!: As the afternoon had worn on, we decided to get some crepes from the stand at the gardens. I knew what very few of the toppings meant, but I was sure of the Nutella. It was deliciously messy.
Cafe creme at a cafe: We met Molly again for a cup of coffee. We looked around for a little bit before settling on this large cafe. It was fairly upscale and our drinks were small, but delicious. It was so nice being able to see a familiar face and share our experiences thus far.
Le Comptoire de Mme. Tomate: After taking the metro to the Centre Pompidou, we decided to get dinner at a restaurant by the name of this point's heading. It translates "The counter/bar of Mrs. Tomato." It was trendy inside and had upbeat music. The service was also excellent. Our waiter was extremely friendly and the waitress was even more excitable. She kept saying long strings of French to us and I only understood about half of it. I ordered a chicken sandwich and a gin fizz and Lee went with a hamburger and beer. Everything was excellent. After our meal, the crazy waitress poured each of us a shot of rum. We weren't really sure what to make of it but gave eachother the "when in Rome..." look and downed the alcohol. However, I looked around and spotted another table of people who were sipping their idential shots slowly. Just when I was beginning to think we had committed a big faux pas the waitress appeared at the table speaking loudly, "Allez! Allez!" (Hurry!) and making motions with her hands that seemed to insist "drink up!" It was definitely the best meal of the trip.
Le Centre Pompidou: Of course, the Eiffel Tower was overwhelming and yes, the Louvre was spectacular with it's glass pyramid; however, when I exited the metro stop by the Centre Pompidou, I was speechless. The building is MASSIVE and stood out so much because we went at nighttime. The modern art was such a nice contrast to the Louvre but I don't think I should really compare the two. Apples and oranges, really.
Glittering Eiffel Tower: Lastly, we went to the Eiffel Tower and got lost on the Metro for the first and last time. Thanks to a tip from the woman from Boston we met at the cafe, we learned that the structure lights up for ten minutes every hour, on the hour after 6:00. Beautiful.
By Monday we were all ready to go home. It was such a long, action packed weekend. Also, I was definitely homesick for the Tube and ENGLISH. On our way to the train station, though, we found one of the city's gems. It was a bakery smaller than my bedroom but we could smell the bread from the sidewalk. (One of Molly's tips) We went in and purchased long thin baguette sandwiches and I also got a croissant that was perfect on the long ride to the airport. Everything was so delicious.
There were many wonderful parts of the weekend but my visit really allowed me to come to terms with the city I had romanticized for years. Now, it's not some far-off dream but something I have felt, seen and smelled. I feel like I am one of the few who has such a subdued view of the city. Everyone usually seems to talk about it in such strong language. You hear about the nasty people and exaggerated tales of the beautiful places. However, I feel that I was able to see it as a real, dynamic city city, full of gems and potholes.
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
ALL or nothing
Later that night, a bunch of people in the house went out. There was a party being thrown for a new travel agency. There were multiple rooms constructed for the event. One had sand and palm trees, another was created to look like an Amazon forest and the last one resembled a Japanese lounge. It was incredible! What was even better was that EVERYTHING was free. We had to wait for a while to get in but had an amazing time. Quite the PR event.
On Monday we decided that we needed to be productive and tried to go to the Westminster library. It was closed. Sooo We took the tube to the British Library. It was intense. They asked for multiple forms of ID and I had to fill out a form on the computer. Once that was done, I received a library card with my picture and a briefing of the rules. No pens. No snacks. No backpacks or bags. etc. etc. etc. Also, there is no browsing of the stacks. You request books online and then the people bring them directly to you. Unfortunately, we finished our applications after 4:00 which is the last time you can order books. I do have access to one of the biggest collections of information in the world, though.
Saturday, February 9, 2008
dAY tRIPPER
After lounging around for the rest of the morning, Lee; Ben; Charlie and I decided to go to the Camden Market. It really turned out to be interesting. The vendors have mostly clothes, jewelry and other trinkets. The vibe was something else, though. It was bohemian smoke shop meets punk rocker Hot Topic with Chinese food cooking in the background. I was also surprised at the manor of the vendors. They were extremely pushy and seemed to be everywhere. This made browsing extremely difficult. Plus, I don't know how I would ever buy anything without a dressing room.
Once we got back to Earl's Court, we figured it was about time to find something to do next weekend because we have four days off. After many headaches, we booked flights to PARIS. Now, we just have to find a place to stay when we get there. Luckily students can tour the Louvre for free on Friday nights because the tickets were not cheap.
Finally, we made a late night excursion to this Mediterranean dive down the street. It was delicious! I got what was essentially gyro meat in a pita topped with garlic mayo and a mixture of shredded cabbage, carrots and other similar vegetables. We were all so full walking home.
Even though today wasn't the easiest I've had thus far, I'm very happy to be living in such a diverse city.
Thursday, February 7, 2008
Send me a postcard; drop me a line
SO, we adventured to Abby Road. It was perfect because none of us were wearing jackets. However, it was a bit anticlimactic. There weren't any signs or souvenir shops (like there probably would be if Abby Rd. was in America) There was another big group of tourists, though. Luckily for us, cars in London drive very conservatively and ALWAYS stop for pedestrians. We were able to take a number of pictures at our leisure. Oh wait, cars here drive like they are racecars and we almost got hit 20 times.
It's all part of the experience, though.
Theatre woes
Luckily, we were able to resurrect the rest of the night with a big pot of pasta and a lot of garlic cheesey bred. mmmm. I went to the store in the afternoon and stocked up. I bought my first jar of Nutella and some mini wheats with apricot filling (among many other things). Do they make something like this in the US? Not sure. Oh well. Now it's time to get ready for another one of Sarah's walking adventures. Today we are meeting at the National Gallery.
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
Nothing better
Earlier today, I had the same course that I just finished the paper for. Usually, it entails studying the history of London by walking around and actually seeing all of the important places. This may sound like a class in british tourism; however, if you think this, you have clearly never met our professor Sarah Chochrane. She is the most adorable British woman who is not much taller than me. But, when she breaks into her "brisk walking" the rest of the class is either in a dead sprint or half a block behind. Oh, and she knows just about EVERYTHING. We spent the morning and early afternoon in Westminster Abbey. It is impossible to describe how beautifully ornate it is. I also love the perks of being in a student group lead by a headstrong British woman. We were able to stand inches away from Edward the Confessor's tomb. He is the one who is responsible for establishing the original Westminster but the space is always closed off to the general public. While much of the Abbey is made up of the large nave, the individual chapels are small and because of the presence of a large tomb, we wove in and out of them like little burrowing insects. Now, this was all well and good until we came to the Chapter House. The sign read that the Chapter house is to houses what the rose is to flowers. While circiling around some shrine my button that indicated my ability to be in the abby popped of and, of course, rolled into the center of the floor surrounded by a velvet rope. No one important seemed to noticed so I wasn't faced with any permanent reprocussions but I am without the free souvenir.
NOW, I must talk about last night's performance. We went to see the production War Horse at the National Theatre. It was INCREDIBLE. The play tells the story of a boy, Albert and his horse Joey in the context of WWI. They are separated when Albert's father sells the horse to the British cavalry but Albert ends up enlisting with the hopes of finding him. The story is extremely powerful but it is only part of the experience. The horses in the story are elaborate, life-size puppets constructed out of wood. They are made of intricate wooden frames that are lined on the inside with brown or grey fabric. Controlled by three people, the puppets act and move just like real horses and, at times, actors actually ride on them. We were all blown away. I only wish more people could see it. Luckily we were among the few to get tickets to it because every performance is sold out and people are actually queuing at 6:00 a.m. to purchase the tickets set aside to be sold on the day of the performance! Amazing.
Monday, February 4, 2008
Dinner and a game
Then, of course everyone wanted to find a place to watch the Super Bowl. However, a lot of places are charging a cover and most of the pubs aren't open past eleven. It costs 25 pounds just to get into the Hard Rock Cafe tonight! So, a bunch of people are just watching on the grainy TV in the common room. Although, since the BBC is airing it, it isn't the same game that everyone in America is watching. Instead of commercials, we get to listen to past Super Bowl moments and British commentary which primarily consists of the annoucers explaining the rules. Apparently they had to go over the purpose of the coin toss.
Sunday, February 3, 2008
The week in rewind
Classes are in full swing and we already have a paper due on Wednesday but this is, of course, not the type of classroom experience that I am used to. As I haven't kept up my blog this week, I'll give a short run through of my week.
Sunday: We all arrived at different times and settled into our rooms. The ACM has rented out what is like a long-term hostel and there is a kitchen and bathrooms on each floor. All of the girls live in rooms of four people. I live with Maggie from Ripon, Caitlyn from Macalester and Heidi from Monmouth. We are all very easy going and get along well but I can tell that we weren't put together because we are the neatest of people. At 6:00 we all had dinner with our professors and program coordinator - and were releived to find out that we didn't have class until the next day.
I ended the evening by heading to the pub across the street with a few other people from the program.
Monday: Class involved a lot of housekeeping tips but we also went for a walk (essentially around the block) with our "host" Goran. He pointed out all of the great places to go and things to look for in our neighborhood. We are staying in Earl's Court, which is in Kensington and Chelsea aka the Southeast part of the city. We had the rest of the afternoon free but had to meet at the Comedy Theatre by 7:30. The performances included Pinter's The Lover and The Collection.
Tuesday: We had another brief class in the morning for more tips on how to survive in London. One of the best tips was John's introduction of the Sainsbury's Basics. It is a line of items at the grocery store that are dirt cheap compared to the other brands. However, even though some, like pasta, are really comparable, some are not. John says he is stuck eating his two boxes of granola that he believes even horses would refuse. Again, we had the afternoon free but had to meet at the Orange Street Theatre at 7:30 for The Woman Hater.
Wednesday: Today meant a BOAT RIDE down the River Thames where we saw all of the quitessential London landmarks, during class. We ended our walk with Sarah at Tower Hill and then were free to roam about the City. That night we went to ANOTHER play. It was Metomorphosis at the Lyric Hammersmith. The performance was incredible. The set was divided into two levels but Gregor's room on the second was positioned very differently. Everything was attached to the vertical back wall as if it were the floor. His body movements really transformed into that of an insect. The performance was emotional and visually stunning.
Thursday: Today, for class, we divided into groups to discuss the past three performances. After class was over Ben, Lee, Maggie and I went to the Natural History Museum where we saw huge skeletons of dinosaurs, a replica of a blue whale done to scale and a huge exhibit on Earth's jewels.
Friday: Sarah took us on another brisk walk around London where we were able a few last remaining chunks of the Roman wall and we spent a lot of time talking about the Tower of London. I can't wait to take the tour. After class ended and our weekend started at noon, we took the tube to see Big Ben and other parts of the City up close. It is amazing to see things that I've only seen in books.
Saturday: Amanda, Emily, Sarah and I went to the Tate Modern and were able to see their huge exhibit on Surrealist works. Being right in front of the actual pieces done by Duchamp, Max Ernst and Jean Arp brought me right back to my FYS. I imagine Evelyn Kain would be proud. Then, I spent most of the night just hanging out and spending time with people at home. We also made a trip to the Burger King down the street. Don't Judge. They have blizzard-esque things for only 99 pence.
We are certainly trying to be conservative with our money because the exchange rate is so terrible but becuase of that we are all very greatful that we have been given monthly tube passes by the ACM. They allow us to go nearly anywhere for free. It is very suprising how quickly we have gotten a hang of the routes and I can definitely say that I love the public transportation. It's just hard getting used to how croweded it is.